Chicago has a handful of Persian restaurants, but when my friend Firouzeh Naghdi longs for the flavors she remembers as a child, she always heads to Noon O Kabab in Albany Park.
"This is called kashk-o bademjan. It's basically pureed eggplant with whey - which is sort of like yogurt - and then you got caramelized onion, lots of garlic, mint," Naghdi said.
There is gormeh sabzie - a lamb stew with spinach, cilantro, red beans and Persian dried limes, plus fessenjan - chunks of Cornish game hen swimming in a pomegranate-walnut sauce. Then there are the magnificent kababs: filet, chicken, ground beef, each one more tender and juicy than the next. Then there is the rice, almost always embedded with saffron. Her eyes light up at one particular dish.
"Tahedig. It's very popular; everyone basically fights over it as soon as it comes to the table," said Naghdi.
Saffon-laced rice is spread over wedges of lavash, then covered and cooked.
"So he cooks that until it's a crusty shell, but then what does he put on top of it?" I asked. "That's a stew called geymeh, which is chickpeas and beef and some French fries on top of it," she told me.
"And then there's shirin polow, which is the jeweled rice," she said. "It's beautiful and usually used in weddings and important parties. There are pistachios, carrots, orange peels and these berries called zereshk (barberry) which are very sour but very tasty in the food," she said. "Reminds me of my own wedding."
As for the kababs, Naghdi says everything from the way the meat is cooked, to the method of making and serving the rice conjures images of home.
"This reminds me of the Persian restaurants in Iran that used to actually deliver the food on top of their head in huge tray, and bring it to your house," she said.
Everything is delicious, I'm not surprised, especially this jeweled rice. I'm curious, so in your native tongue - Farsi - how would you say 'this is delicious?" I asked her. "Cheghad Khoshmazi Hast," she responded. "Nushe Jan (bon appetit) and Firouzeh (thank you)."
Noon O Kabab also has a handy carryout location next door, which can handle large orders or catering.
Iran
Noon O Kabab
4661 N. Kedzie Ave.
773-279-9309
www.noonokabab.com
Previous "My Country: My Cuisine" locations from 2010:
Poland
Ferajna
6714 W. Belmont Ave.
773-427-0727
www.ferajna.com
China
Big Ed's Potsticker House
3139 S. Halsted
312-326-6898
potstickerhouse.com
Ireland
The Gage
24 S. Michigan Ave.
312-372-4243
www.thegagechicago.com
Thailand
Aroy
4654 N. Damen Ave.
773-275-8360
Korea
San Soo Gab San
5247 N. Western Ave.
773-334-1589
France
Le Bouchon
1958 N. Damen Ave.
773-862-6600
www.lebouchonofchicago.com
Vietnam
Tien Giang
4925 N. Broadway St.
773-275-4928
www.tiengiangrestaurant.com
Cuba
90 Miles Cuban Cafe (2 locations)
3101 N. Clybourn Ave.
773-248-2822
and 2540 W. Armitage
773-227-2822
www.90milescubancafe.com
Sweden
Tre Kronor
3258 W. Foster Ave.
773-267-9888
www.trekronorrestaurant.com
Philippines
Little Quiapo
6259 N. McCormick Ave.
773-279-8861
www.littlequiapo.com
Pakistan
Chopal Kabab
2240 W. Devon Ave.
773-338-4080
