Compound butters elevate grilled meats
CHICAGO (WLS) -- It's no secret a little bit of butter can enrich the flavors on the plate, but there's a little-known trick chefs have up their sleeves, that can help the home cook as well - especially with grilling season upon us.
They're called "compound butters" which integrate a lot of flavor into a small slice. Melted over grilled meats this weekend, you'll become the hero at your backyard barbeque. We visited two restaurants in town to see how they're assembled and used.
The Bavarian-inspired food at Logan Square's Table, Donkey and Stick employs seasonal fruits and herbs, and this time of the year, a compound butter is one way to add a jolt of flavor.
"It tastes really good and it goes onto a steak and changes the dimensions of what you're eating," said chef Scott Manley.
Manley blends a full-fat European butter with preserved blueberries, a lot of chopped dill and just a touch of armagnac. Placed into plastic wrap when soft, it's formed into a log, re-chilled, then sliced whenever an order goes out, melting slowly at the diner's discretion.
At Two Restaurant, in West Town, Chef Tom Van Lente loves to keep at least two compound butters on his menu.
"The great thing about it is that they're extremely versatile, and that's what we do here is we try to take it to the next level," said Van Lente.
That could mean seasonal ramps - the ultimate spring onion - blended into a compound butter then nestled within, and on top of, a homemade biscuit.
More appropriate for grilling season is a chimichurri compound butter. He begins by finely chopping fresh flat leaf parsley and cilantro, as well as a mound of briny capers and minced shallots. A large amount of butter is then mixed pretty thoroughly in the bowl, and bumped up with some fresh lemon juice as well as vinegar. Same procedure: it's rolled up in plastic wrap, thoroughly chilled, then sliced as soon as the steak - or whatever protein he deems worthy - is sent to the table. But he stresses not everything goes well in a compound butter.
"You can't have super random stuff in there because then it's not gonna set properly, too much liquid won't let it set properly, so a lot of it is about ratio at the end of the day," said Van Lente.
Table, Donkey and Stick
2728 W. Armitage Ave.
773-486-8525
Two
1132 W. Grand Ave.
312-624-8363
