CHICAGO (WLS) -- As Peruvian food takes its turn in the spotlight internationally, places like Via Lima in North Center are trying to recreate those flavor combinations as ingredients become more available.
"When we were in Lima, we experienced some incredible produce, just incredible what you can get there," said Andrew Sayer. "It's incredible food, it's very sophisticated."
Ceviche is the best example. Raw, pristine White Sea bass is briefly "cooked" in citrus juice, with the aid of a "leche de tigre" consisting of fresh lime juice, fish stock, onions, ginger and cilantro, plus aji limo, a typical Peruvian chile. Just like in Lima, it's served with crunchy corn, red onions and a wedge of cooked sweet potato. Speaking of potatoes, the causas are essentially mashed potatoes seasoned with yellow aji amarillo chiles.
"We're using Kennebecs because that's the closest to that yellow, dried potato that they use in Peru that we could find," Sayer said.
There are plenty of pisco sours to drink here from the extensive bar, as well as some chifa dishes - that is, the hybrid of Peruvian and Chinese. Lomo saltado is the classic: wok-fried filet mignon tossed with onions and tomato, seasoned with soy sauce but also Peruvian chiles.
"The fresh texture of the onion but you've got a little bit of char on the edges and then some tomato goes in there. A little aji Amarillo, which is the yellow chile," said Sayer. "It's a Chinese restaurant in Peru, you want to capture as many Peruvians as you can, so you need to include the potatoes."
There are at least a half dozen Peruvian restaurants in Chicago right now, but really only two - Tanta in River North, and Via Lima - going that extra mile, trying to elevate the cuisine, both in the surroundings as well as what's on the plate.
They also serve a Peruvian brunch every weekend, both Saturdays and Sundays.
Via Lima
4024 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60618