Softshell crabs a star at Eataly's fish counter
CHICAGO (WLS) -- Along with asparagus, morel mushrooms and ramps, softshell crabs are one of the surest signs of spring in Chicago kitchens. But anyone can make a simple, delicious dinner at home with softshells. And the best part of all? The retail price should drop as they become more plentiful over the next couple of weeks.
The fish counter at Eataly in River North commands your attention with its impressive lineup of local and imported sea creatures. But this time of year, softshells - named because they're harvested just after they shed their hard, protective helmets and become entirely edible - are the real stars.
"He's still alive, but he's got hardly any life in him; he's just blowin' bubbles," said Grant Dewilde, the Fishmonger at Eataly. "When they start to harden up a bit again, they definitely start to get more life into them, and they'll be like trying to move around and get at you and what not."
Categorized by size using names like hotels, primes, jumbos and whales, Dewilde said you want a live one.
"This is a good example of what you don't necessarily want; like this guy, he's still got enough strength to hold himself together. This guy is dead. You can see it by just how wilted he is," Dewilde said.
Also, check out the gills.
"When you see the gills and they look like they're perfectly even, they don't smell, they look like they're fresh, like the animal's still got something coursing through him; that's what you want," he said.
Just a few yards away, at Il Pesce - the store's seafood restaurant - softshells are cleaned, dunked in milk, then dredged in flour, before getting a quick deep-fry.
"They have tons of natural sweetness to it. The entire thing is edible," said chef Alex Pilas. "It's also kind of a harbinger of Spring, so I love it."
Pilas serves two softshells with some grilled asparagus and a sauce made from fresh spring ramps, and he said you really don't need to add that much to them; their flavor speaks for itself.
"We're just looking for a condiment or garnish to go with the shells," said Pilas.
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