Boka in Lincoln Park welcomes new chef
CHICAGO (WLS) -- The scene buzzes almost as much as it did when it first opened, a decade ago. Boka in Lincoln Park recently underwent a major facelift, changing both the decor, as well as the chef.
Lee Wolen now runs the show.
"The food is definitely still a super high level, the service is a super high level, just without any attitude," said Wolen.
One elegant starter includes a log of luscious foie gras, crusted in chopped hazelnuts and fresh chives amid a forest of spring rhubarb and lettuce. All of his pasta is made here, including a beautiful ravioli.
"It's a ravioli with salt cod, potatoes, and it's just glazed in butter, chicken stock and chives," Wolen said.
Those garlicky pods are nestled among arugula, fava beans and artichokes - clear indicators of the season. His roasted chicken made the move over from The Peninsula too, with a lemon-thyme-brioche-butter stuffing beneath the skin, sides of asparagus and ramps offer clean, seasonal notes.
Loup de mer - a Mediterranean sea bass - is olive oil poached, then plated with a citrusy-briny amalgam of preserved blood oranges, capers, olives and raisins, plus artichokes and caperberries. For dessert, one option includes creme fraiche cheesecake with an irresistible roasted apricot sorbet and pistachio biscotti. Wolen said he and his team are trying to keep the techniques and tricks to a minimum.
"Yeah we don't really cover anything with weird techniques or different techniques than classic cooking," he said.
And as the weather gets warmer, this little patio becomes functional with herbs and vegetables, and seating for just two tables of four people, but reservations will be taken for the day-of only, because obviously, it's weather-permitting.
Boka
1729 N. Halsted St.
312-337-6070
