Shake Shack, Umami take on local burger scene

Saturday, December 13, 2014
Shake Shack, Umami take on local burger scene
Chicago may be known as the capital of hot dogs and pizza, but a couple of well-known chains have opened recently, attempting to take on the local burger scene.

CHICAGO (WLS) -- Chicago may be known as the capital of hot dogs and pizza, but a couple of well-known chains have opened recently, attempting to take on the local burger scene.

What began as part of an art installation in New York City's Madison Park 10 years ago, has led to Shake Shacks all over the globe, including the latest, in River North.

"Shake Shack is a modern day take on the classic roadside shake and burger stand certainly that I grew up with in St. Louis but I think people all over the country did," said Danny Meyer.

The Shackburger is fairly standard, pressed thin on the griddle, but there's also a Shack-ago dog with slight alterations like no poppy seed bun and the addition of thinly-sliced cucumbers and high-quality relish. One sausage hails from West Town's Publican Quality Meats, while two concretes feature mix-ins from Bang Bang Pie and Glazed and Infused doughnuts.

"The bigger we get, the smaller we want to act," Meyer said. "Anytime we can bring local artisans, food-wise, beer-wise, any of the pastries that get mixed into our frozen custard concretes - even the coffee - we try to do it that way."

In Wicker Park, LA-based Umami Burger now has its first Chicago branch, bringing that intense savory flavor to burgers.

"Umami is the fifth sense. You have sweet, you have salty, you have bitter you have sour. Japanese scientists discovered umami sense years ago. And that's what our flavor profile for all of our dishes are based off of," said Alberto Vieyra.

Umami ketchup rests beneath a beefy patty topped with umami dust and sauce, plus caramelized onions, a thin Parmesan wafer and roasted tomatoes, plus roasted shiitake mushrooms, topped off with a Portuguese bun.

"It's actually infused with a bit of honey and milk, and it gives it just a nice, subtle sweetness to it," Vieyra said.

So obviously there is room for two more burger joints in Chicago. The nice thing about both? The desserts. In Shake Shack's case, the frozen custard, and in Umami Burger's case, outstanding ice cream sandwiches.

Shake Shack

66 East Ohio Street

Chicago, IL 60611

(312) 667.1701

Umami Burger

1480 North Milwaukee Avenue

Chicago, IL 60622

(773) 423-2005